Classic VW Beetles and Campervans » Buying

I Want to Buy a Campervan!

beetle — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 10:08:53 +0000

So, I want something which is a little bit of a project – something which I can use as a toy at the weekends.

I am currently liking the idea of a VW Camper Van – a Classic one….

Thing is – some come expensive some come cheap – I know the expensive ones are re-con’s and also you can buy a brand new one from Brazil – built by VW Brazil.

Anyone got any experience of these? What to look for – the usual thing like making sure the chassis is sound clearly is important and the 1600CC unleaded mod….

Advice on buying a classic VW Beetle

beetle — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 09:50:34 +0000

Ive recently grown a serious appreciation for these cars and im thinking of investing in one… (either that or a classic midengined car..something like a Fiat X1/9 maybe)

However I have no idea what to look out for with these cars.. ive got a rough idea that a 1303s with 1.6 in might be something im looking for… but then my mate said that the shape of the windscreen is something to pay attention too (bubble or flatscreen?!).

Anyone know any basic tips, potential good models to look out for or a resource like an owners club where I could pick up some info?

Also if you think beetles are rubbish feel free to suggest a fiat x1/9 alternative

Nice one,
Jamie

Buying a Type 3 & 4 Volkswagen

beetle — Sun, 11 Jan 2009 01:46:06 +0000

The state of any classic vehicle and the amount of wear, tear and rust it has will depend on the vehicle’s storage, usage and maintenance history – it is best to be wary of any recent underseal and of course look for unevenness, bulges, misaligned wings, etc.

That’s some of the obvious stuff out the way, here’s the not so obvious stuff we know, from experience, you should check for rust, wear and tear:Front axle tubes behind rubber mountings, bump-stop arms and shock-absorber supports.

Floor-pan edges, around bolts and their load-spreading plates
Inner sills and floorpan; lift carpets – clean and dry, or damp and rusty?
Body flange where it mounts on floorpan edges
Rear lower seat-belt mounting area
Rear suspension cross-tube, side mounts and particularly upper body mounts
Rear bumper mounts, and wheel arches

Other more visible problems could be the bumper mounts, any where on the front wings including the inner wings, spare wheel and the bottoms of all the removable panels. Never assume you’ve found all the rust, even after a good look. This means that if you can’t weld or money’s tight you might want to walk away.

Surprising, a bad paint job is probably good – it won’t hide faults as well as a pristeen paint job. Look for signs of a recent respray around the bonnet/hood and boot/trunk openings where they meet the outside paint. You might also consider peeling back window rubbes to check for signs of a respray.

Interiors don’t really affect the drive but they are expensive to replace. Cosmetics do matter when you’re buyin a classic car!

The mechanicals are also important – you don’t want a duff engine! Check for blue smoke, crunching gears, steering that pulss to one side and dead or flat brakes. We’d suggest always check when the engine is warm!

If you are paying top dollar for a car, you want to make sure it is a good one. If you’re not a mechanical whizzkid, consider paying a reputable organisation like the RAC in the UK who will give you a professional opinion. You may be £75 pounds out of pocket if the vehicle is a dud, but that’s better than losing thousands on a car that’s only fit for the junk yard!